Granada’s city centre has been based, above all, on a human scale, it is this intimacy that invites a casual stroll through its streets and squares. Indeed, but for the urban sprawl of bars and discos to be found on Pedro Antonio de Alarcón street, it would seem that Granada’s relaxed atmosphere is compatible with everybody’s tastes. In this way, the visitor wandering through the centre can choose from a variety of alternatives depending on the season and the time of day.
Moving on a little further into the city centre, we commence another essential route for the visitor; starting off at the Plaza de las Pasiegas or from Plaza Bibarrambla, in the surroundings of the Cathedral. You will soon come across San Jerónimo street, and from here walk down to the Plaza de la Universidad. However, it is also possible to arrive here via the Plaza de la Trinidad and the Botanical Gardens. Once in the plaza, the Law Faculty and the church of Santos Justo and Pastor form the ancient centre built by the Society of Jesus in the seventeenth century. The San Jeronimo street, which continues until the hospital of San Juan de Dios boasts a number of noble cloistered patios such as that of San Bartolomé and Santiago, the Conservatory or the college of Notaries. Walking down San Jerónimo, to its left we leave behind the old neighbourhood of La Duquesa, named after the wife of the Gran Capitán who lived there. In fact, it was the duchess who ordered the convent of San Jeronimo to be built in the first place, as a humble sepulchre for her husband. Like a number of other monuments in Granada, the convent combines Gothic and Renaissance elements; its magnificent cloisters and chapel make an extended visit worthwhile.
Of the group of buildings formed by the hospital and church of San Juan de Dios, virtually adjacent to the convent of San Jerónimo, the most outstanding features are the hospital’s patios and, above all, the staircase that leads to the upper floor and separates both patios. On visiting the building, bear in mind that it continues to function as a hospital and there is only limited access to the public.To end off this route, walk up San Juan de Dios street until you reach the gardens of Triunfo, behind which you will be able to make out one of the most significant monuments in Granada built by the Catholic Monarchs, the Hospital Real. Its construction was positioned outside the city and close to the Puerta de Elvira, to aid the numerous soldiers wounded in the War of Granada. It now serves a double function as rectory and central library of the University of Granada, the latter can be found on the upper floor. From here, a further route leads towards the Cartuja.
Having finished this last tour, the visitor may have become a little weary of churches, cloisters and Gothic, Baroque or Mannerist facades. It is time, therefore, to wander around Granada’s streets and mingle with its people as we approach the Plaza de Isabel la Católica, from the streets Alcaiceria or Zacatín, or from the Madraza, if we are still walking around the cathedral.
From here, the route becomes a little more easy–going, simply stroll down Reyes Católicos street —where the Darro river once flowed— until reaching Puerta Real. In this short stretch, and to the left hand side of the street, the visitor will come across the ancient barrio of San Matías and the Corral del Carbon, an essential stopping–off point, next to which a small square is adorned by the magnificent facade of the Palacio de Abrantes.
The name Corral del Carbón is somewhat deceptive, since in reality this monument is not, nor has ever been, a corral (a patio of neighbourhood dwellings) like many others found in Granada or throughout Spain. As a matter of fact, it started life as a caravanserai, a building commonly found in the Islamic world, and which served as both lodging for the merchant caravans that arrived in the city and, at the same time, where the tax on this market produce was controlled.
After such an extended tour, a welcome break is what is now in order and the perfect place to start is Puerta Real, considered to be the centre of Granada. This square, which has been recently restored to its former glory, is ideal for shopping, for the best establishments walk around the pedestrianized streets in the vicinity. For refreshment, do not forget the countless tapas bars and restaurants that fill Plaza Nueva, Plaza de la Pescadería, Plaza Bibarrambla, or Navas street adjacent to the Auyntamiento (Town Hall).
If, by this time, you still wish for more sightseeing, the more determined visitor will find some notable places to visit and two exquisite routes at only a stone’s throw away. The first leads down from Puerta Real, past the fuente de las Batallas (an enormous public fountain) and from here, down the carrera de la Virgen de las Angustias, to the paths that follow the banks of the river Genil. The boulevards Violon, Salon and Bomba are French–inspired walkways that once represented the outer limits of the city. It is here that the rivers Genil and Darro meet in their journey towards the Guadalquivir.
For the second route from Puerta Real, take Recogidas street that dips down towards the vega (Granada’s plain). At the bottom, you will come across the Federico Garcia Lorca park, a new development in the grounds of the Huerta de San Vicente, the house in which the poet lived out his years in Granada and which has now been restored as a museum. Both the house and gardens symbolize the city’s tribute to the memory of one of Granada’s most celebrated figures.
Here is a bit of information on every place mentioned above:
Plaza Bibarrambla
It has a name as equally strange as its history; indeed it has changed to such an extent that its name seems nothing other than an archaeological relic. Next to the river Darro there once stood a walled esplanade, close to the silk market which possessed arcades and miradores —all long since disappeared. The plaza has also lost the arches which connected it with the adjacent streets, these are now situated in the Alhambra wood. In the present day the square is an open, sunny space full of flower stalls, but how this transformation came about is a mystery. The centre of busy streets around about such as Zacatín, the Plaza de las Pasiegas and the Plaza de la Pescadería and the fact that it remains completely cut off from traffic, make Bibarrambla a fine place for a casual shop or wander within a city whose echoes of the past recall only a distant memory.
The Squares of Trinidad and Los Lobos
The squares of Trinidad and los Lobos form two very special corners in the centre of Granada. The latter owes its name to the Capitoline legend of Romulus and Remus (lobos are wolves). The square now acts as the focal point of the barrio created by the duchess during the construction of the convent of San Jerónimo. The Trinidad derives its name from a less legendary source: the seizure of the church and convent that stood there during the disentailment made way for this English square which has become one of Granada’s most delightful spots.
Church of Saints Justo and Pastor
Plaza de la Universidad s/n
Tel: 958 278 792
Service times.
It is one of the most sumptuous churches in the city. The main gateway is divided into two, one side combines corinthian columns on pedestals with white marble reliefs of the Jesuit saints San Francisco de Borja and San Francisco Javier, the other features corinithian columns with a relief of San Pablo and a sculpture by San Ignacio de Loyola. Inside, the floor plan is in the form of a latin cross, on its central point there stands an enormous and highly decorated dome. The high altar possesses a beautiful altarpiece designed in the most spectacular gothic style.
This church, together with the Botanical Gardens, the Law Faculty, the calle de San Jeronimo along with the San Bartolome and Santiago Halls of Residence, the Conservatory and the College of Notaries among others, forms a complex of buildings that should be appreciated as a whole. Within this group of buildings, there lies a counter–reformist tendency that sought to create a christian urban street–plan in the midst of the Muslim city’s labyrinth. The project was inspired by the Jesuits and followed its habitual practice of constructing public buildings in the city centre. The first nucleus was formed by the University buildings, the remainder were added in due course.
San Jeronimo Street
The Botanical Gardens, Law Faculty, church of Saints Justo and Pastor, calle de San Jerónimo and the Colegio Mayor San Bartolomé and Santiago, the Conservatory and College of Notaries
Among others form a group of buildings which deserve our particular attention. Here can be seen the urbanistic tendencies of the Counter–Reformists whose aim was to construct a Christian street plan within the Muslim city’s labyrinths. The project was inspired by the Jesuits, coinciding with their habitual practice of installing public services in urban centres. The University was the first nucleus to be built, while the others were constructed subsequently.
Monastery of San Jeronimo
Rector López Argaeta 9
Tel: 958 279 337
Opening times
1st April to 31st October: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 to 13.30 and 16.00 to 19.30. Sunday from 11.00 to 13.30 and 16.00 to 19.30.
1st November to 31st March: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 to 13.30 and 15.00 to 18.30. Monday 11 to 13.30 and 15 to 18.30.
The order of the Jerónimos was especially spoilt by the Catholic Monarchs, for this reason the founding of the monastery in Santa Fe precedes the taking of Granada. Building began on its present site in 1504, its two cloisters are complete with gardens, fountains and orange trees. Part of its great wealth lies in the fact that the widow of the Gran Capitan chose the site as the burial place for both herself and her valiant husband. The adjacent church boasts a spectacular altar piece and choir, the work of the most significant craftsmen in Granada during the 16th and 17th centuries.
Hospital and Church of San Juan de Dios
San Juan de Dios, 23
Tel: 958 241 714, 8 to 15
The growth of the church hospital as an institution in the 16th and 17th centuries can be seen reflected in this Portuguese saint who adopted Granada as the centre for his work.
The hospital, once the ancient headquarters of the Jerónimos, is laid out in two patios decorated with tiles and mural paintings. The staircase leading to the upper floor, with its theatrical scene painting, was completed in the 18th century, when the church became joined to the hospital.
Hospital Real
Cuesta del Hospicio s/n
Tel: 958 243 025, 9 to 14
Standing by the Triunfo Gardens, the Royal Hospital is one of the first buildings constructed by the Catholic Monarchs in Granada, as well as one of the very few civilian ones. Work was begun in 1504 to attend the needs of those injured during the taking of the city. Still unfinished, the building represents a magnificent example of the transition of styles typical of that era.
The placement of vaults both on the ground and first floor, gives shape to two of the finest transepts in Elizabethan architecture, establishing four patios of varied decoration. The higher transept contains a special magic in which all the dreams of history can be read: the library of Granada University.
Puerta de Elvira
The city’s real life stood not at its walls but at its gateways, through which everything would pass, where merchants would meet and news be exchanged. The gateways were often, thus, the most lively areas of Islamic Granada.
The neighbourhood’s identity owes almost everything to its walls and gateways. The eminent Puerta de Elvira signalled the route towards the ancient medina of the same name up to the Fajalauza gate in the north. While the Puertas de las Pesas and Monaita are also worth a visit. Monumentally, perhaps the most impressive was the Puerta de Guadix, along the Darro river.
Monastery of Cartuja
Monasterio de la Cartuja s/n
Tel: 958 161 932
Opening times
1st April to 31st October: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 to 13.00 and 16.00 to 20.00.
1st November to 31st March: Monday to Sunday, 10.00 to 13.00 and 15.30 to 18.30.
Surrounded in the present day by the largest of Granada’s two university campus, the location of the monastery on the city’s outskirts was logical considering the work carried out by both monks and laymen in the orchards, vineyards and olive groves, according to the canons. Although work began in 1515, from the outset the project seemed as equally medieval as the order itself. However, certain delays meant its design would later acquire grandiloquent features in keeping with the time, far removed from the austere wishes of its founders. The church, sacristy and side chapel in particular attain a bewildering decoration, mixing interesting works by Bocanegra, Sánchez Cotán and other artists, with magnificent marquetry work and incrusted stone, crafts that would maintain a great tradition in Granada.
Alcaiceria
Situated at the heart of the city, the Alcaicería (market place) had its heyday at the end of the Nasrid empire. It was especially famous for the quality of its silk, the speciality of the Granada market stalls. Today, sandwiched between Oficios and Zacatín streets, the Alcaicería boasts an endless collection of shops and jewellers where you can find fine examples of local craftsmanship: pottery, silverware, basketry and marquetry (various types of wood incrusted with bone, mother–of–pearl and ivory).
Palace of the Madraza
Oficios 14
Tel: 958 223 447
Opening times
Monday to Friday, 8 to 22.
This school of Koranic studies founded by Yusuf I preserves notable elements of its past. The glass–covered patio, the mihrab of the ancient medersa or the coffered ceiling of the sala de los Caballeros Veinticuatro give us a rough idea of the building’s possible evolution throughout its history as well as the blend of so many diverse architectonic languages in the same space.
Corral del Carbon
Mariana Pineda 12
Tel: 958 229 063,
Opening times
Monday to Friday 9 to 19; Saturday and Sunday 10 to 14.
Having crossed the street where a river once flowed, we arrive at the Corral del Carbón. The picturesque harmony of this 14th century building, its almost perfect reflection of a surviving past recalls many buildings throughout the Mediterranean, above all in Morocco; Fez and Marrakesh both boast many examples of these ancient corrals (fondacs).
Puerta Real
However much a city has expanded or transformed itself over the centuries, there are always places, days, hours which recall that nostalgic air of the small town that once existed in its place. In Granada, Puerta Real and the fuente de las Batallas represent this evocative spot. A place in which a seemingly complex mixture of peoples from any culture or century may meet and relax, strolling through a succession of sunny winter days.
Plaza Nueva
The square acquired its present form after successive attempts to cover up the Darro river. After the Catholic Monarchs’ construction of the Royal Chancery, the city demanded greater space until the river was finally made to disappear altogether. Subsequently, the square acquired a vital importance, becoming one of the most important centres in the city. Chroniclers speak of bullfights and other tournaments being held here. Centuries later, Joseph Pennell, illustrator of Washington Irving’s legendary work Tales of the Alhambra, devoted much of his time to drawing this spot and its emblematic building (the Chancery), undoubtedly one of the most noteworthy palaces in Granada.
The plaza de Santa Ana is an extension of the original plaza Nueva, but today it seems an integral part of the whole square. It was added owing to a rise in the Darro river that took with it a number of houses in the area. Today, on the spot where we can find the pilar del Toro fountain (Diego de Siloé’s final work), there once stood the puente de los Barberos which later had to be demolished. The parish church of San Gil witnessed the same fate, although a fragment of its entrance and a Virgin with Child can be seen in the Archaeological Museum.
The church of Santa Ana is surely one of the most harmonious in all Granada, inside it is replete with works of art (Jose de Mora, Diego de Aranda, Jose Risueño...). High above, the torre de la Vela (the tower of the Alcazaba) looks down, as it has done for centuries, on the intense human activity that fills plaza Nueva, bordering on to the city’s business centre. At night, the atmosphere changes, as a number of bars and taverns grant the plaza its distinctly bohemian and cosmopolitan air.
Ayuntamiento de Granada
(Town Hall)
The Ayuntamiento de Granada (Town Hall) moved in 1858 from its previous headquarters in the Madraza palace to the remains of this Carmelite convent in the plaza del Carmen. Throughout the years, the taste of each particular era changed the old convent building’s characteristics as it was adapted to new uses. An example is the architect Juan Pugnaire’s clearly classicist facade to which was added a great central balcony open on to the plaza del Carmen, this feature represents the building’s public and municipal function. Even so, the Town Hall has never lost its monastic air which is most closely felt inside. Indeed, the entrance resembles a temple rather than a vestibule due to the railing designed by Isidoro Marín, clearly inspired by the great railing in the capilla Real as well as to splendid ceiling supported by seven enormous wooden beams. Also within this tradition are the tiles that decorate the courtyard (the cloister of the old convent) which together with the columns, arches and layout of the two floors remind us of the other prestigious convent buildings in the city such as San Juan de Dios or San Jerónimo.
Inside, the stairway leads up the first floor where one finds the council’s official suites: meeting areas, conference rooms and the mayor’s office, known as the sala de la Mariana. Around these rooms, two L–shaped galleries open on to the central courtyard from which the light enters.
Spread throughout the rooms and galleries there is an interesting art collection of different styles and themes which covers Granada’s historical past (the conquest and its main personages) to religious works, as well as a highly comprehensive selection of works by Granada painters from the end of the last century and start of the twentieth, essential for those wishing to understand the city’s pictorial heritage.
Church of Nuestra Senora de las Angustias
Carrera del Genil s/n
Tel: 958 226 393
Service times.
The facade is divided into two and topped by two high bell–towers. One side is made of solomonic columns and on the second there stands a niche with a sculpture of the Virgin carrying on her skirt the body of Christ, created in 1665 by Bernardo de Mora and his son José. On the right of the gateway, a door leads to the sacristy, above this a niche houses a stone sculpture of San Cecilio, made by Jose Risueño. Inside, there are four chapels on either side of the nave. The high altar, from the 18th century, contains under a large central arch the Virgin’s camarín (the place where her jewels are stored) decorated in the baroque style, this constitutes one of the first churrigueresque works in Granada, with its ornamentation in gold leaf and magnificient marble colours. The throne of the Virgin stands in the centre, while the dome is supported by four solomonic columns in black marble.
Violon, Salon and Bomba
The boulevards of the Salón and la Bomba, following the river Genil, lead to the start of the road to the mountains and the puente Verde.
Having crossed the river in the other direction, the Violón boulevard maintains a paradoxical vision of an old public washing place sitting opposite the ultra–modern palacio de Congresos.
Huerta de San Vicente
Federico Garcia Lorca house-museum and Park
Virgen Blanca s/n
Tel: 958 258 466
Opening times
From 1 October to 31 March 10 to 13 and 16 to 19;
1 April to 30 September 10 to 13 and 17 to 20.
August 10 to 14.
The Huerta de San Vicente was, between 1926 and 1936, the summer house of the García Lorca family. It was here that Lorca would write a great part of his work (Así que pasen cinco años, Bodas de Sangre, Yerma or the Diván del Tamarit). Situated at that time in the heart of Granada´s plain (the vega), the house now lies inside the city, within the Federico García Lorca park.
Alongside the original furnishings, the house also contains drawings by the poet and others by friends such as Dali, Lanz and Barradas. In addition to this, in the small exhibition hall, the visitor can see manuscripts, drawings, photographs, and original documents from the archive of the Fundación Federico García Lorca.
The Huerta de San Vicente also organizes cultural activities: from concerts, conferences and temporary exhibitions to publications and children´s activities.
